“2013北京國際首飾藝術展”是一場以“首飾·身份”為主題的國際首飾展覽，旨在展現不同文化的交流與碰撞，推進多元化首飾藝術創作的潮流，並為不同的藝術創作觀念和思潮搭建互動的平台與空間。本書從上千件展覽作品中精心挑選出具有代表性的藝術家的作品，作品豐富多樣，個性十足，極具視覺衝擊力和啟發性。 本書適合高等院校珠寶首飾專業師生、首飾設計師、首飾收藏者以及廣大首飾愛好者閱讀與參考。
基本介紹
- 書名：2013北京國際首飾藝術展
- 作者：詹炳宏
- 出版日期：2013年9月1日
- 語種：簡體中文
- ISBN：9787518000500
- 外文名：2013 Beijing International Jewelry Art Exhibition
- 出版社：中國紡織出版社
- 頁數：238頁
- 開本：16
- 品牌：中國紡織出版社
基本介紹,內容簡介,作者簡介,圖書目錄,序言,
基本介紹
內容簡介
一場經典的國際首飾藝術展，其圖書展示了國際首飾設計大師與新銳首飾設計師的最新設計作品，極具借鑑性和啟發性！
作者簡介
主編詹炳宏生於1968年，教授，博士，現任北京服裝學院藝術設計學院院長，“數字與互動媒體”北京市重點實驗室主任，瑞士蘇黎世藝術大學客座教授，中國流行色協會理事，中國家紡行業協會理事。在國內外期刊以及論壇發表多篇論文；出版專著《數字圖形界面藝術設計》；所負責課程《數碼設計基礎》獲得北京市精品課；參與舉辦第一、第二屆“新媒體北京”論壇及展覽活動、策劃“北京夏日數字娛樂項目”“全球時尚文化經濟論壇”等學術活動；曾參與國旗、香港區旗等多項國家標準起草、連續三年承擔中國紡織工業協會流行趨勢研究及發布工作、參與微軟亞洲研究院“娛樂搜尋”項目、負責“中國概念服裝虛擬展示平台”軟體開發等多項北京市科研項目，參與和負責市級創新團隊項目兩個。曾獲紡織之光教師獎、北京市教學成果二等獎、北京市精品課。
圖書目錄
參展人員名單/18
特邀參展藝術家作品/25
參展藝術家作品/57
特邀參展藝術家作品/25
參展藝術家作品/57
序言
Preface
Unlike most design fields, jewelry design has the power of carrying the long evolution of human being’s cultural cognition and aesthetics. From the Shaman’s witchcraft tools in the primitive society to today’s diversified forms glittering and twinkling in metropolitans; from the symbol of family status and fortune to the presentation of personal styles; from thousands of times’ tempering to industrial mass production, jewelry contains the most gorgeous, concise and direct feelings of us and our desire of self-expression. Classical jewelry never dims with the pass of time. So does modern jewelry. Glinting in the sun shining through the showcase, jewelry can always easily capture our hearts which is flowing brilliance, elegance and luxury. In today’s world in which jewelry has become approachable to more and more people, though the deliberation as scholars doesn’t allow us to as-sert that the golden time of jewelry design has come, we can claim proudly: jewelry design has caught the eyes of many talented designers.
Like other things with the charm of intoxicating admired hearts, jewelry design is born with contradiction and mysterious character waiting to be explored. Specifically, in the 80s-90s, jewelry was positioned as a kind of crafts – traditions covered the eyes looking for creation like a robe. Today, jewelry design has taken off its robe, becoming one of the hottest design field with a fresh new looks. Dramatically, such a shift of concepts and thoughts, as if being realized in the blink of an eye, has been deeply marked on the new generation of great jewelry designers. The change of jewelry’s another attribute also makes us sign over the flying of time. In the industrial society which hasn’t gone far, jewelry, with great brilliancy, natural luxury, and an air of constancy and steadiness, was tightly connected with social stratum and collection; while in the atmosphere of today’s urban consumer culture, it has become the symbol of wisdom, sagacity and fashion, with obvious commercial and modern looks.
Jewelry could not be much complicated, for it is just a decoration of man; while jewelry design could be, for it is enriched with history. When jewelry isno more exclusive to the rich, some questions concerning contemporary jewelry design are posed. In such an age where digital design has been expanding rapidly, is it still meaningful to study traditional patterns and craftsmanship? How to keep the balance between the price and aestheticvalue of jewelry in the increasingly strong business sentiment and the consumer culture rebelling tradi-tional concepts? How do individualization and the individualized manufacturing mode meet the production and purchasing demand in the increasingly industrialized society? How do jewelry designers keep their creativity while facing the contradiction between insisting their design concept while meeting the demand of customers? All those questions need to be answered with enough wisdom. Only when ideas are lit by the sparks coming from the collision between eastern and western art, between traditional and contemporary concepts and between ideal and reality, could we walk forward steady and firmly.
Therefore, during the Beijing International Design Week (BIDW), Beijing International Jewelry Biennial 2013 was jointly held by the Or-ganization Committee of BIDW, the National Gems &Jewelry Technology Administrative Center of the Ministry of Land and Resources and Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. Attended by over 300 artists from 45 countries and regions around the world, the Biennial is an unprecedented grand gatheringfor jewelry artists to exchanging views. The Biennial aims not at showing great works but creating a crea-tive, academic and experimental platform for jewelry designers to share wisdom and experience; and building a bridge of communication by which future thoughts and concepts are connected. It’s believed that the Biennial will inject abundant energy to the prosperity of jewelry design, providing a brilliant stage for designers to realize their dreams and show their talent.
The Biennial is themed as “Jewelry·Identity” for it’s believed that Jewelry design shall not be limited in artistic ontology and styles. “Identity” also indicates the special identity of the designers participating in the show. As teachers of famous domestic or international universities, we need not only professional quality and morality, but also the leadership and aesthetic view to guide the later generation of designers. The identity of teacher makes us believe that we are crucial to carry on the art of jewelry design, for feeling and studying the pulse of the trends of jewelry is a part of our everyday work. Such a self positioning does not come from arrogance, but from a heavy responsibility we’ve recognized during years of experience. Our identity requires us to have a wider vision, a broader mind, a sharper instinct and a more rigorous interpretation. Exhibitions are the best way to break parochialism, gain inspiration and exchange ideas, thus developing a better approach of education.
At last, I’d like to thank all the officials and Organization Committee members for their supports and also the teachers who contributed a lot but asked for nothing. In a modest way, they promoted the development of jewelry design. My thanks also go to all the designers and artists attending the Biennial for they provided the leading roles and props for such an amazing show. We hope that the understanding on time and identity contained in those beautiful jewelry pieces can inspire more designers to see jewelry design from a new perspective and also attract visitors to walk into the inside of the works.
Liu Yuanfeng 北京服裝學院院長Dean of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology
前言
金秋九月的北京，“2013北京國際首飾藝術展”在北京國際設計周主會場中華世紀壇的世界藝術館隆重開幕。1800平方米的東方廳與西方廳內，展示了來自世界五大洲45個國家和地區的300多名藝術家近年來創作的1200多件首飾藝術作品。這是一次國內外首飾藝術家們空前的盛會。這次展覽是由北京國際設計周組委會、國土資源部珠寶玉石首飾管理中心和北京服裝學院共同主辦，北京服裝學院藝術設計學院和歌華文化中心有限公司承辦。展覽時間為2013年9月24日至10月12日，展期長達18天。
展覽將集中展示當代國內外最優秀、最前沿的高等院校師生、首飾藝術家、獨立設計師及企業的首飾藝術作品，以來自世界不同國家和地區的300多名首飾藝術家的原創作品為載體，通過豐富多樣的首飾設計理念與設計形式，傳達世界文化在歷史長河中不斷交流、融合後所呈現的多元化面貌。展覽旨在加強國際間首飾藝術的交流，有利於首飾設計理念和創作技藝的碰撞、融合與創新。此次展示將有力促進當代國內外高校首飾藝術設計教育的交流以及首飾藝術設計教學與產業的互動；此次展示為國內行業人士和普通觀眾帶來優美的視覺享受和開闊的視野，並了解現代首飾的最新設計理念和發展趨勢；此次展示將為中國當代首飾行業設計創新的振興提供重要的能量和資源，必將影響和引領中國當代首飾藝術的發展。
展覽期間，我們還將舉辦“首飾·身份”主題論壇和中外高校首飾設計教育研討會，邀請國內外高校10多位知名學者、首飾藝術大師和國內20多所高校師生代表，就首飾設計教育教學、首飾設計理念、設計與工藝創新、消費與首飾設計等相關專題發表演講和研討，凸顯首飾設計創新性、學術性研究以及實驗性探索。
此次展覽策劃與籌備歷時一年半的時間，得到了國內外數十所藝術院校和五百多名藝術家的回響和支持。由於展地有限不能把全部藝術家的作品都展示出來，在此深表歉意。此次展覽得到了歌華集團在展館、展具等方面的大力支持，在此深表謝意。展覽籌備期間，北京服裝學院藝術設計學院的數十名師生為此付出了很多很多。這本作品集不但及時編輯、設計、印刷和出版，更是許多師生辛勤的汗水所獲得的。在此向所有為展覽籌備、學術活動、作品出版做出貢獻的人們表示深深的謝意。
Foreword
In September – the prime time in the fall, “2013 Beijing International Jewelry Art Biennial “ was opened at the World Art Museum of the China Millennium Monument, the main venue for Beijing Design Week, in Beijing., In both the Oriental Pavilion and the Western Pavilion covering a total area of 1,800 square meters, over 1,200 jewelry artworks created in recent years by over 300 artists from 45 countries and regions on five continents will be showcased. This is an unprecedented gathering for domestic and overseas jewelry artists. Jointly sponsored by the Organizing Committee of Beijing Design Week, National Gems & Jewelry Technology Ad-ministrative Centre under the Ministry of Land and Resources and Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT) and undertaken by the Academy of Art & Design of BIFT and Beijing Gehua Cultural Center Co., Ltd., the exhibition will last 18 days from September 24 to October 12, 2013.
During the exhibition, the most outstanding and cutting-edge jewelry artworks by teachers and students of institutions of higher education, jewelry artists, independent designers and enterprises from home and abroad will be showcased. On the basis of original works by over 300 jewelry artists from different countries and regions in the world, with diverse concepts and forms of jewelry design, the exhibition will convey the diversification of world cultures after constant cultural exchanges and integration throughout the history; as it aims to cement international jewelry art exchanges, it is conducive to collision, integration and inno-vation of jewelry design concepts and craftsmanship. Also, the exhibition will boost exchanges between domestic and overseas institutions of higher education in jewelry art design education as well as interactions between jewelry art design teaching and the industry; during the exhibition, domestic industrial insiders and common visitors will be treated to a visual feast, thus having their vision broadened and keeping them updated on the latest design concepts and development trends of modern jewelry; and the ex-hibition will provide important energy and resources for the rejuvenation of design and innovation of China’s contemporary jewelry industry,thus influencing and leading the development of China’s contemporary jewelry art.
During the exhibition, we will hold a forum themed “Jewelry·Identity” and a seminar on jewelry design education of Chinese and foreign institutions of higher education, inviting a dozen distinguished scholars, jewelry maestros and representatives from over 20 domestic institutions of higher education, to deliver speeches and exchange views on relevant topics, such as jewelry design education and teaching, concepts of jewelry design, design and craft innovation, consumption and jewelry design. The forum and seminar will be highlighted by the innovative and academic researches and experimental exploration of jewelry design.
It took one year and a half to plan and make preparations for the exhibition, which has received positive responses and supports from dozens of art academies and over 500 artists from home and abroad. I am really sorry that we cannot put on display all works due to limited space, and at the same time, I would like to thank Beijing Gehua Cultural Development Group for its support in terms of venue and appliances. When making preparations for the exhibition, dozens of teachers and students of the Academy of Art & Design of BIFT made painstaking efforts. The timely editing, design, printing and publishing of the works collection have been attributable to their hard work. Hereby I would extend my heartfelt thankfulness to all people who have contributed to exhibition preparations, academic activities and the publishing of the works collection.
Guo Qiang
Dean of the Department of Product Design, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology
Unlike most design fields, jewelry design has the power of carrying the long evolution of human being’s cultural cognition and aesthetics. From the Shaman’s witchcraft tools in the primitive society to today’s diversified forms glittering and twinkling in metropolitans; from the symbol of family status and fortune to the presentation of personal styles; from thousands of times’ tempering to industrial mass production, jewelry contains the most gorgeous, concise and direct feelings of us and our desire of self-expression. Classical jewelry never dims with the pass of time. So does modern jewelry. Glinting in the sun shining through the showcase, jewelry can always easily capture our hearts which is flowing brilliance, elegance and luxury. In today’s world in which jewelry has become approachable to more and more people, though the deliberation as scholars doesn’t allow us to as-sert that the golden time of jewelry design has come, we can claim proudly: jewelry design has caught the eyes of many talented designers.
Like other things with the charm of intoxicating admired hearts, jewelry design is born with contradiction and mysterious character waiting to be explored. Specifically, in the 80s-90s, jewelry was positioned as a kind of crafts – traditions covered the eyes looking for creation like a robe. Today, jewelry design has taken off its robe, becoming one of the hottest design field with a fresh new looks. Dramatically, such a shift of concepts and thoughts, as if being realized in the blink of an eye, has been deeply marked on the new generation of great jewelry designers. The change of jewelry’s another attribute also makes us sign over the flying of time. In the industrial society which hasn’t gone far, jewelry, with great brilliancy, natural luxury, and an air of constancy and steadiness, was tightly connected with social stratum and collection; while in the atmosphere of today’s urban consumer culture, it has become the symbol of wisdom, sagacity and fashion, with obvious commercial and modern looks.
Jewelry could not be much complicated, for it is just a decoration of man; while jewelry design could be, for it is enriched with history. When jewelry isno more exclusive to the rich, some questions concerning contemporary jewelry design are posed. In such an age where digital design has been expanding rapidly, is it still meaningful to study traditional patterns and craftsmanship? How to keep the balance between the price and aestheticvalue of jewelry in the increasingly strong business sentiment and the consumer culture rebelling tradi-tional concepts? How do individualization and the individualized manufacturing mode meet the production and purchasing demand in the increasingly industrialized society? How do jewelry designers keep their creativity while facing the contradiction between insisting their design concept while meeting the demand of customers? All those questions need to be answered with enough wisdom. Only when ideas are lit by the sparks coming from the collision between eastern and western art, between traditional and contemporary concepts and between ideal and reality, could we walk forward steady and firmly.
Therefore, during the Beijing International Design Week (BIDW), Beijing International Jewelry Biennial 2013 was jointly held by the Or-ganization Committee of BIDW, the National Gems &Jewelry Technology Administrative Center of the Ministry of Land and Resources and Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. Attended by over 300 artists from 45 countries and regions around the world, the Biennial is an unprecedented grand gatheringfor jewelry artists to exchanging views. The Biennial aims not at showing great works but creating a crea-tive, academic and experimental platform for jewelry designers to share wisdom and experience; and building a bridge of communication by which future thoughts and concepts are connected. It’s believed that the Biennial will inject abundant energy to the prosperity of jewelry design, providing a brilliant stage for designers to realize their dreams and show their talent.
The Biennial is themed as “Jewelry·Identity” for it’s believed that Jewelry design shall not be limited in artistic ontology and styles. “Identity” also indicates the special identity of the designers participating in the show. As teachers of famous domestic or international universities, we need not only professional quality and morality, but also the leadership and aesthetic view to guide the later generation of designers. The identity of teacher makes us believe that we are crucial to carry on the art of jewelry design, for feeling and studying the pulse of the trends of jewelry is a part of our everyday work. Such a self positioning does not come from arrogance, but from a heavy responsibility we’ve recognized during years of experience. Our identity requires us to have a wider vision, a broader mind, a sharper instinct and a more rigorous interpretation. Exhibitions are the best way to break parochialism, gain inspiration and exchange ideas, thus developing a better approach of education.
At last, I’d like to thank all the officials and Organization Committee members for their supports and also the teachers who contributed a lot but asked for nothing. In a modest way, they promoted the development of jewelry design. My thanks also go to all the designers and artists attending the Biennial for they provided the leading roles and props for such an amazing show. We hope that the understanding on time and identity contained in those beautiful jewelry pieces can inspire more designers to see jewelry design from a new perspective and also attract visitors to walk into the inside of the works.
Liu Yuanfeng 北京服裝學院院長Dean of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology
前言
金秋九月的北京，“2013北京國際首飾藝術展”在北京國際設計周主會場中華世紀壇的世界藝術館隆重開幕。1800平方米的東方廳與西方廳內，展示了來自世界五大洲45個國家和地區的300多名藝術家近年來創作的1200多件首飾藝術作品。這是一次國內外首飾藝術家們空前的盛會。這次展覽是由北京國際設計周組委會、國土資源部珠寶玉石首飾管理中心和北京服裝學院共同主辦，北京服裝學院藝術設計學院和歌華文化中心有限公司承辦。展覽時間為2013年9月24日至10月12日，展期長達18天。
展覽將集中展示當代國內外最優秀、最前沿的高等院校師生、首飾藝術家、獨立設計師及企業的首飾藝術作品，以來自世界不同國家和地區的300多名首飾藝術家的原創作品為載體，通過豐富多樣的首飾設計理念與設計形式，傳達世界文化在歷史長河中不斷交流、融合後所呈現的多元化面貌。展覽旨在加強國際間首飾藝術的交流，有利於首飾設計理念和創作技藝的碰撞、融合與創新。此次展示將有力促進當代國內外高校首飾藝術設計教育的交流以及首飾藝術設計教學與產業的互動；此次展示為國內行業人士和普通觀眾帶來優美的視覺享受和開闊的視野，並了解現代首飾的最新設計理念和發展趨勢；此次展示將為中國當代首飾行業設計創新的振興提供重要的能量和資源，必將影響和引領中國當代首飾藝術的發展。
展覽期間，我們還將舉辦“首飾·身份”主題論壇和中外高校首飾設計教育研討會，邀請國內外高校10多位知名學者、首飾藝術大師和國內20多所高校師生代表，就首飾設計教育教學、首飾設計理念、設計與工藝創新、消費與首飾設計等相關專題發表演講和研討，凸顯首飾設計創新性、學術性研究以及實驗性探索。
此次展覽策劃與籌備歷時一年半的時間，得到了國內外數十所藝術院校和五百多名藝術家的回響和支持。由於展地有限不能把全部藝術家的作品都展示出來，在此深表歉意。此次展覽得到了歌華集團在展館、展具等方面的大力支持，在此深表謝意。展覽籌備期間，北京服裝學院藝術設計學院的數十名師生為此付出了很多很多。這本作品集不但及時編輯、設計、印刷和出版，更是許多師生辛勤的汗水所獲得的。在此向所有為展覽籌備、學術活動、作品出版做出貢獻的人們表示深深的謝意。
Foreword
In September – the prime time in the fall, “2013 Beijing International Jewelry Art Biennial “ was opened at the World Art Museum of the China Millennium Monument, the main venue for Beijing Design Week, in Beijing., In both the Oriental Pavilion and the Western Pavilion covering a total area of 1,800 square meters, over 1,200 jewelry artworks created in recent years by over 300 artists from 45 countries and regions on five continents will be showcased. This is an unprecedented gathering for domestic and overseas jewelry artists. Jointly sponsored by the Organizing Committee of Beijing Design Week, National Gems & Jewelry Technology Ad-ministrative Centre under the Ministry of Land and Resources and Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT) and undertaken by the Academy of Art & Design of BIFT and Beijing Gehua Cultural Center Co., Ltd., the exhibition will last 18 days from September 24 to October 12, 2013.
During the exhibition, the most outstanding and cutting-edge jewelry artworks by teachers and students of institutions of higher education, jewelry artists, independent designers and enterprises from home and abroad will be showcased. On the basis of original works by over 300 jewelry artists from different countries and regions in the world, with diverse concepts and forms of jewelry design, the exhibition will convey the diversification of world cultures after constant cultural exchanges and integration throughout the history; as it aims to cement international jewelry art exchanges, it is conducive to collision, integration and inno-vation of jewelry design concepts and craftsmanship. Also, the exhibition will boost exchanges between domestic and overseas institutions of higher education in jewelry art design education as well as interactions between jewelry art design teaching and the industry; during the exhibition, domestic industrial insiders and common visitors will be treated to a visual feast, thus having their vision broadened and keeping them updated on the latest design concepts and development trends of modern jewelry; and the ex-hibition will provide important energy and resources for the rejuvenation of design and innovation of China’s contemporary jewelry industry,thus influencing and leading the development of China’s contemporary jewelry art.
During the exhibition, we will hold a forum themed “Jewelry·Identity” and a seminar on jewelry design education of Chinese and foreign institutions of higher education, inviting a dozen distinguished scholars, jewelry maestros and representatives from over 20 domestic institutions of higher education, to deliver speeches and exchange views on relevant topics, such as jewelry design education and teaching, concepts of jewelry design, design and craft innovation, consumption and jewelry design. The forum and seminar will be highlighted by the innovative and academic researches and experimental exploration of jewelry design.
It took one year and a half to plan and make preparations for the exhibition, which has received positive responses and supports from dozens of art academies and over 500 artists from home and abroad. I am really sorry that we cannot put on display all works due to limited space, and at the same time, I would like to thank Beijing Gehua Cultural Development Group for its support in terms of venue and appliances. When making preparations for the exhibition, dozens of teachers and students of the Academy of Art & Design of BIFT made painstaking efforts. The timely editing, design, printing and publishing of the works collection have been attributable to their hard work. Hereby I would extend my heartfelt thankfulness to all people who have contributed to exhibition preparations, academic activities and the publishing of the works collection.
Guo Qiang
Dean of the Department of Product Design, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology
