Dr. Martens這雙粗獷的工作鞋今年五十歲了,然而它卻一點不老,反而成為年輕人的潮品。Dr. Martens最初於1960年由德國的Klaus Martens創立,在英國的南安普頓生產。
基本介紹
- 中文名:馬丁大夫
- 外文名:Dr. Martens
- 創立時間:1960年
- 創立人:由德國的Klaus Martens創立
企業簡介,官方介紹,穿法,
企業簡介
上世紀七八十年代,Dr. Martens成為朋克、光頭黨和New Wave新浪潮等的最愛,他們穿著它與機車夾克、牛仔,臉上帶著譏笑表情。
今天,Dr. Martens是潮流必備單品,Agyness Deyn有好幾雙,Madonna麥當娜的女兒Alice Dellal也經常穿著。 Dr. Martens來歷
馬丁靴充滿了傳奇色彩。早在1945年的德國,一位叫Dr. Klaus Maertens的醫生和他的朋友Dr. Herbert Funck在阿爾卑斯山滑雪,不慎摔傷了腳,在康復過程中,為了使自己走路輕鬆些,馬丁斯博士和他的朋友設計了一種看起來很粗魯,但非常舒適的靴子來穿。不出兩年,這種設計便在德國註冊,專為那些年老有腿疾或腰痛的德國婦女生產保健鞋。到1959年,這種鞋在整個歐洲都十分暢銷。於是,朋友倆決定把這種設計賣給英國Wollaston的一個企業R. Griggs,該集團在生工作鞋和軍用靴方面歷史悠久,技藝精湛。1960年4月1日,Dr. Martens於英國的Northamptonshire踏出了第一步。首個設計,就是8孔的1460款式。這個款式,本來是為Docklands巡警而設計的。它那實而不華的設計,尤其鞋邊黃色針步及獨特的鞋印圖案,當年大獲好評,所以順理成章推出市場,並成為了不同年代的潮流文化標記。這種靴的關鍵在於鞋底。它既十分柔韌又十分耐穿,而且耐油、耐酸、耐鹼、耐腐蝕。20世紀80年代,時裝設計師又把馬丁博士帶進了時裝表演,頓時,馬丁博士的靴子成為時裝新潮。此外,Dr. Martens的Air Wair鞋底設計,舒服耐用,多年來一直是吸引人們的原因。在現代的時尚圈,Dr.Martens的靴子被公認全世界最舒適的靴子,並且外型經典,成很多靴子愛好者的必備收藏品。發展至現在,Dr. Martens除了鞋履外,還推出服裝、文具、包等。在英國,幾乎沒有任何一位男士不認識這個經典牌子。
官方介紹
英文版
When the Dr. Martens boot first catapulted from a working-class essential to a counter-cultural icon back in the 1960s, the world was pre-internet, pre-MTV, pre-CD, pre-mp3s, pre-mobile phones... hey, they'd only just invented the teenager. In the years before the boot's birthday, 1st April, 1960, kids just looked like tribute acts to their parents, younger but the same. Rebellion was only just on the agenda for some - for most kids of the day, starved of music, fashion, art and choice, it was not even an option.
But then an unlikely union of two kindred spirits in distinctly different countries ignited a phenomenon.
In Munich, Germany, Dr Klaus Maertens had a garage full of inventions, including a shoe sole almost literally made of air; in Northampton, England, the Griggs family had a history of making quality footwear and their heads were full of ideas. They met, like a classic band audition, through an advert in the classified pages of a magazine. A marriage was born, an icon conceived of innovation and self-expression.
Together they took risks.
They jointly created a boot that defined comfort but was practical, hard-wearing and a design classic. At first, like some viral infection, the so-called 1460 stooped near to the ground, kept a low profile, a quiet revolution.
But then something incredible started to happen.
The postmen, factory workers and transport unions who had initially bought the boot by the thousand, were joined by rejects, outcasts and rebels from the fringes of society.
At first, it was the working-classes; before long it was the masses.
Skinheads were the first subculture to adopt the boot in the early 1960s, spilling out of the East End of London, then across Britain and the world; initially non-racist and obsessive about their fashion, by the time the skinhead movement was corrupted with elements of right-wing extremism, Dr Martens had already morphed into a torchbearer for a brave new world.
The late 1960s and 1970s saw the boot adopted by - not thrust upon - nearly all the 'tribes': Mods, glam, punks, ska, psychobillies, grebos, Goths, industrialists, nu-metal, hardcore, straight-edge, grunge, Britpop...
Then pop started to eat itself.
The internet spread like an epidemic, reaching fifty million users in eighteen months - a feat that took radio forty years. The first mobile phone text was sent in 1992; within three years, email was like oxygen. Everything had changed.
There were no tribes anymore. At least, "not like they used to make 'em."
You don't see one tribe fighting another anymore, a haircut does not define a person to four albums by three bands.
The tribe is down to one person.
You.
A one-man army.
The personal revolution manifests itself in a million ways. So-called 'indie' and 'punk' record labels of the 1970s and 1980s were created to cut out the suits. They were called 'labels' because of the round adhesive label smack bang in the middle of the vinyl.
Vinyl?
CDs?
Now, you don't even need a label.
Record, mix, master and post on the web from your own empire.
Hit the charts from downloads alone.
There is no one left to cut out. It's all down to you.
Of course, just because we can all now 'create', doesn't mean we are all actually any good. But the cream floats to the top, whatever the mode of transport.
Same with Dr. Martens.
Decades have come and gone, brands have exploded and then imploded, but the 1460 is still there, unique, individual, original. Anti-fashion defined in eight holes.
What's seen as information overload to the older generation is just everyday surfing to the new generation. In one weekend edition of The New York Times, there is more information than a seventeenth century man was exposed to in his entire life. Dr. Martens haven't been around since the 1600s, but in terms of 鈥?brands' that mean something, that last, that reinvent and evolve, they pre-date pretty much everything.
By the mid-1990s, Dr. Martens had festered in the minds of youth without a single penny of 'marketing spend', longer than the majority of global brands had even existed. There is no comparison. This is not a brand, it is a way of thinking, a mode of expression.
The problem with 'brands' is that they dictate. They might offer the must-have item of the
season, but they design it, shape it, form it and sell it. You have no say, other than handing over your money. Look at the word: 'brand'. That's what they do to cattle.
Rebel.
Create your own brand.
Dr. Martens have always been different. No other brand has been mutated, customised, fucked up and freaked out like DM's. Without asking or being able to stop it. It happened to them. They were just fascinated bystanders on a journey that has raced through every crevice of subculture, every twist and turn of youthful creativity and now, here, with a generation who have always had email, mp3s and downloads, it is as relevant and vibrant as ever.
Because although the tribes no longer stride through London or New York, although individuality is the music for the masses, although fashion is just another way of defining yourself, the Dr. Martens 'brand' has come full circle, it is a blank canvas on which a generation can paint their personality. You can wear your grunge shorts, your emo hair, your punk tatts, your metal piercings and your pride on your sleeve, all at the same time, there are no limits, no boundaries, no pigeon-holes to fit into.
To be creative sometimes you have to rebel.
To rebel you have to have something to rebel against.
Driving fast, drinking cheap beer and smashing windows isn't rebellion. The best form of rebellion is individualism. Thinking for yourself.
Information overload is the most fantastic element of modern life. You can have it all. You don't need to align yourself with one band, one tribe, one venue, one gig; you can share your console with a complete stranger twenty thousand miles away; you can post your demo on a site that has a greater population than most countries.
But you need anchors in this sea of creativity.
You need things you can rely on.
Things you can recruit to your army.
Friends, whether they add you or not.
Tunes loaded, down.
Ideas loaded, up.
Fashions that express.
Possessions that matter.
Things that inspire self-expression, not commodities that spoon-feed an identity.
Dr. Martens anchor you, liberate your creativity, inspire and fuel your identity. Our heritage fits your future; your future is our future.
中文版
當第一次啟動一躍馬滕斯博士從工人階級必不可少的反文化偶像,在20世紀60年代,世界前網際網路,預MTV音樂台,預光碟,預MP3歌曲,預先行動電話.. 。嘿,他們會才剛剛發明的少年。在幾年前啟動的生日,1960年4月1號,孩子只是看著像他們的父母致敬行為,但同樣年輕。叛亂被剛上的一些議程只 - 對於大多數的孩子在一天的音樂,時尚,藝術和選擇餓死,它甚至不是一種選擇。
但後來一兩個志同道合的國家不可能在完全不同的聯盟點燃的現象。
在慕尼黑,德國,克勞斯博士梅爾滕斯了包括鞋底幾乎從字面上的空氣使車庫發明充分;在北安普頓,英國,格里格斯家有鞋的製作質量和他們的頭被充滿創意的歷史。他們見面,就像一個樂隊的經典面試通過廣告,在一本雜誌的分類頁面。婚姻是出生,創新和自我表達的構思一個圖示。
他們一起冒著危險。
他們共同創造了舒適的定義,但很實用,耐磨損和一個經典設計引導。起初,像一些病毒感染,即所謂的1460彎腰靠近地面,保持低姿態,一場靜悄悄的革命。
但後來發生的事情令人難以置信的開始。
郵差,工廠工人和運輸誰最初購買千引導工會,也加入了拒絕,從社會的邊緣棄兒和反政府武裝。
首先,它是工薪階層,沒多久,這是民眾。
光頭黨是第一個採用亞文化在60年代初啟動,溢出的倫敦東區出來,然後在英國,對世界最初的非種族主義和關於他們的時尚迷戀,由光頭運動的損壞時間的元素右翼極端主義,馬滕斯醫生已經蛻變成火炬手為一個勇敢的新世界。
60年代末和70年代,啟動的通過 - 而不是強加 - 幾乎所有的'部落':MODS的華麗,朋克,斯卡,psychobillies,grebos,哥特人,企業家,女,金屬,硬核,直邊,垃圾,英倫搖滾...
然後彈出開始吃自己。
像傳染病一樣蔓延網際網路,達到五千萬用戶在十八個月 - 一個壯舉,廣播用了四十多年。第一行動電話傳送文本1992年三年內,電子郵件像氧氣。一切都變了。
目前還沒有部落了。至少,“不喜歡他們用來製造它們。”
你不會看到一個部落的戰鬥另一個了,理髮沒有定義一個人的樂隊由三至四個專輯。
這個部落已經降到了一個人。
你。
一個人的軍隊。
革命的個人表現在一萬元的方式本身。所謂'獨立'和'朋克'的20世紀70年代和80年代唱片公司的建立是為了削減了西裝。因為他們被稱為圓不乾膠標籤'標籤'嫌在乙烯中間爆炸。
乙烯?
CD嗎?
現在,你甚至不需要一個標籤。
記錄,混合,碩士,就從你自己的帝國網站發布。
打從下載單獨的圖表。
有沒有人留下來裁剪。這一切都落在你身上。
當然,僅僅因為我們現在都'創造',這並不意味著我們實際上都沒有益處。但奶油浮到頂部,無論運輸方式。
同樣的,馬滕斯博士。
幾十年來來去去,品牌已經爆炸,然後引爆,但1460年仍然存在,獨特的,個人,原始。反時尚的定義在八洞。
最新的信息超載對老一輩看到的只是每天上網的一代新人。於一體的紐約時報周末版節目,還有更多的信息多於十七世紀的人暴露在他的整個生活。馬滕斯博士尚未出現自17世紀,但在鈥?品牌'這意味著什麼,那最後的改造和發展,他們早於幾乎所有條款。
到了90年代中期,有潰爛馬滕斯博士在青年心中沒有一個一分錢的行銷花費,超過了全球大多數品牌,甚至存在。沒有比較。這不是一個品牌,它是一種思想,一種表達方式方法。
用'品牌'的問題是,他們支配。他們可能會提供必須具備的項目
季節,但他們設計的,它的形狀,形式和出售。你有沒有發言權,你的錢比其他移交。看看這個詞:'品牌'。這就是他們做的牛。
叛亂。
創建自己的品牌。
馬滕斯博士一直是不同的。沒有其他品牌已突變,個性化,性交和不祥的感覺像DM的了。不問或能阻止它。它發生在他們身上。他們只是著迷的旅程已經通過各種比賽的亞文化,每一個扭曲和創造力的年輕縫隙轉,現在,這裡一直有一個誰電子郵件,下載MP3和一代,旁觀者,這是由於沒有相關的和以往一樣充滿活力。
因為雖然沒有通過部落倫敦或紐約時間跨度,但個性是為民眾音樂,雖然風只是自己的另一種定義方式,馬滕斯博士'品牌'來了一圈,這是一個空白的畫布這一代人可以畫自己的個性。你可以穿短褲的垃圾,你的情緒的頭髮,你朋克tatts,您的金屬穿孔放在你的袖子,在同一時間所有的驕傲,沒有任何限制,沒有界限,沒有鴿子洞適應。
為了要有創意,有時你必須反抗。
要反叛你必須有什麼反抗。
開快車,喝廉價的啤酒,打破Windows不是叛亂。叛亂的最好形式是個人主義。為自己的思考。
信息超載是現代生活中最精彩的元素。你可以擁有一切。你並不需要將一個樂隊,一個部落,一個場地,一個演出你自己,你可以分享你的一個完全陌生的控制台二萬英里吧,你可以發布的網站上,有一個更大的人口比你演示最國家。
但是你需要在這個創意海錨。
你需要的東西,你可以依靠。
事情你可以招募到你的軍隊。
朋友們,無論他們加入你的錢。
曲調載入下來。
思想載入了。
時尚的表達。
財產這一問題。
事情激發自我表現,而不是商品,填鴨式的飼料身份。
穿法
古典穿法:
隨意的挽起一截褲腿,長短隨便。另外把靴子的高幫放了下來,鞋帶穿到第7個孔或第8個孔,然後不用紮緊鞋帶,隨意系一下就好了,然後把鞋幫和鞋舌都翻下來。。
這種穿法就很街頭的感覺,而且可以用垮褲來搭配,而不用像前面那樣穿非常緊的褲子。
方法1:
可以搭配 黑色夾克 和格子的MINI裙 是最傳統和容易搭配的方法
方法2:
搭配雪紡的料子 就很可愛 而且甜美度也能上升好多
方法3:
搭配可愛的緊身褲子 和 亮色系連身的裙等長款衫也是十分不錯的選擇。
方法4:
可愛的骷髏圖片 COOL味十足+馬丁靴 個性立現
方法5:
搭配出類似KARE那種的 PUNK個性味道十足的 搭配時候不要拘泥傳統 很多款式的衣服都能融合其中
方法6:
中長絲襪搭配馬丁靴
早期的男性朋克族喜歡穿黑色的緊身褲和馬丁博士靴,而女性們則喜歡穿廉價的網紋長筒絲襪和超短裙,現在的潮流則是很好地把這兩者結合在了一起,而且色彩變得更加豐富和更加陽光。彩色的條紋長筒襪、印花的連襪褲、破碎的網紋絲襪都是現代朋克族少女們的最愛。在日本人氣電影《NANA》中,主人公娜娜就是一身黑色的長筒絲襪加靴子的打扮,帥氣至極。
PS:化妝也要相對注意PUNK的就要上個小的煙燻
想打造甜美感覺不防 搭配上可愛的微捲髮型 增加甜美度
類似方法5的不防化個自然裝 那樣即能突出衣服搭配的效果 也不會顯的過頭